Learn About Jewelry Technology & Manufacturing

Chain Making

Chain can be mass produced on specialized chain machines using round, oval or square wire in a variety of patterns. The wire is fed continuously into the machine, wrapped around shaped steel formers to create the link, cut and the next link is interwoven as the wire is fed in again. On more modern machines, the links are automatically welded by laser or microplasma welding torch in situ on the machine but more commonly, the links are soldered in a belt furnace after manufacture.

Some chain designs, such as herringbone, require a flattened profile and this is achieved by rolling the chain in a rolling mill. It then needs some secondary operations to make it flexible. Decoration can be added by diamond machining to produce bright cut facets. Use of ice to secure the chain in position on drums for machining is an easy way to control quality.

More complex chains can be made from stamped components which are bent and interlocked. It is also possible to make lightweight hollow chain by use of small, thin tube around a base metal core. After processing the metal core is leached out in acid. Chain can be made in all caratages of gold (8-24 ct) and in the full color range of carat golds.

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