Learn about Pearls

While most gemstones are formed by the heat and pressure of the Earth's molten core, pearls are created in calm waters by a living gem factory - the oyster. What starts out as an irritating bit of sand trapped inside the oyster grows, layer upon layer, into one of the most luminous and lovely of all gems, treasured for more than 4,000 years as a symbol of purity, modesty and virtue.

In every 10,000 oysters, you might be lucky enough to find a single natural pearl. Because of this scarcity, most pearls today are cultured pearls. A tiny bead is implanted in an oyster, so that it is gradually coated in layers of a beautiful, pearlescent substance called nacre which build up to create a lustrous pearl.

At JewelryByNet, we offer beautiful Freshwater, Akoya, South Sea, and Tahitian cultured pearls. Below, read about the qualities that define a fine pearl.

Pearls are fashionable with daytime and evening wear. They are at home with a silk chemise or with jeans and a simple sweater. Without a doubt, pearls are one of the indispensable accessories in a jewelry box.

The Makings of a Pearl

Pearls begin when a grain of sand, another piece of pearl, or any other irritant contained in the oyster’s shell. To protect itself the oyster secretes multiple layers of a calcium carbonate substance called nacre around the foreign object to isolate it from the rest of the oyster. After a few years, the original irritant is covered in a silky coat and that is a pearl.

Both natural and cultured pearls are born and grow inside live oysters. The difference between the two is that natural pearls are formed by nature, or by chance, and cultured pearls are made by man’s assistance by injecting an irritant into the oyster. Today, most pearls are cultured.

Pearl Color

The general color of a pearl is also called the body color. Typical pearl colors are white, cream, yellow, pink, silver, or black. A pearl can also have a hint of secondary color, or overtone, which is seen when light reflects off the pearl surface. For example, a pearl strand may appear white, but when examined more closely, a pink overtone may become apparent.

»  Learn about Pearl Color

Pearl Luster

Pearls produce an intense, deep shine called luster. This effect is created when light reflects off the many layers of tiny calcium carbonate crystals that compose the pearl. This substance is called nacre. When selecting a pearl, consider that the larger the pearl, the more nacre it has, so it will also exhibit even more luster. Compare a 5mm Freshwater cultured pearl with a 10mm South Sea cultured pearl and the difference in the amount of nacre is obvious. The difference in luster is as clearly visible as the difference in the pearl sizes.

»  Learn about Pearl Luster

Pearl Shape

At JewelryByNet, we offer the highest quality, rarest pearl shape - round. Shapes that are not spherical or even symmetrical are considered lower quality. Akoya, Tahitian, and South Sea pearls found in jewelry have a tendency to be the roundest, while Freshwater pearls can be oval or slightly off-round.

»  Learn about Pearl Shapes

Pearl Surface Markings

As an oyster creates a pearl, the layers of nacre do not always adhere smoothly. Sometimes spots and bubbles can appear in the layering process. Pearls with the smoothest surfaces are the highest-quality, most sought-after pearls. At JewelryByNet, to offer you a range of prices, we offer pearls with a range of surface qualities.

»  Learn about Pearl Surface Markings

Pearl Size

The size of the pearl greatly depends on the type of pearl. Freshwater pearls range in size from about 3–7mm, Akoya pearls range from about 6–8.5mm, and South Sea and Tahitian pearls can reach sizes as large as 13mm.

TYPES OF PEARLS

There are two types of pearls - natural and cultured - which are judged by their luster, absence of blemishes, color, size and shape (round, irregular, baroque, pear, drop or button).

Natural pearls are produced - without any intervention by man - by certain types of mollusks (oysters and clams) found in a number of both salt and fresh water sources including areas of the Pacific Ocean, the South Sea Islands and the Persian Gulf. Natural pearls are extremely rare and therefore, generally more costly than cultured pearls.

Cultured pearls - the type carried in our stores - have almost completely replaced the natural variety on the market since the process was first discovered in the early 1900s. Perfected in Japan by Kokichi Mikimoto just prior to World War II, cultured-pearl farming yields pearls that are also produced by mollusks but their production is scientifically controlled. The process begins with the insertion of a mother-of-pearl bead inside the living tissue of the mollusk, which coats the bead with nacre, producing a cultured pearl within one to three years (depending on seasonal conditions and water temperatures). The advent of pearl cultivation has made pearls more affordable and thus more available to consumers. Cultured pearls come in a wide range of values.

CULTURED PEARL CATEGORIES

White Cultured Pearls

Most cultured pearls on the market today are white pearls, which are fairly translucent and can have undertones of pink, yellow or other colors. To find an entire string of cultured pearls in the same shade, you may have to consider dyed or irradiated pearls. The particular shade should be chosen based on preference and what best complements your skin tone. If you are buying a string of cultured pearls, make sure there are knots between the individual pearls to prevent rubbing and to ensure that only one cultured pearl will drop if the string breaks.

Freshwater Pearls

Recently, techniques have been developed to culture pearls in freshwater mollusks (mussels and clams), found in freshwater lakes and rivers. These pearls are sometimes called "Biwa pearls" after the lake in Japan where they were first developed, but today that name should only be used for cultured pearls from Lake Biwa. In fact, freshwater cultured pearls are cultivated around the world, including Tennessee (United States), and come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some are spheres and used like other round pearls; some are buttons and used to accent jewelry; and some are blister shapes called Mabé, which are often used in earrings and other pieces with closed backs.

Black Cultured Pearls

Black cultured pearls can come from a variety of sources like the large black-lipped oyster found in the South Seas. Producers of the rarest black cultured pearls, these oysters create large, silver-gray to black pearls that can have other colors as overtones - peacock green being the most valuable. For less costly alternatives to the rare South Seas type, try enhanced black cultured pearls from China and Japan that are actually white cultured pearls, either exposed to radiation or dyed all the way through using a process called "French dying." This process will produce an even, strong color that lasts for years. Colored cultured pearls require the same care as naturally colored pearls.

QUALITIES OF CULTURED PEARLS

Luster and orient. Luster is the sharpness and intensity of reflections on the pearl's surface, and orient is the iridescent colors one sees within the pearl. The higher the luster and orient, the more valuable the pearl.

Color. Describes both the main color (usually white, black or yellow) and the undertone (often pink, rose, or even green.) Pearls can also be dyed any shade to meet personal preference.

Cleanliness. Describes how many imperfections are found on the surface of the pearl. Some imperfections are expected on all pearls, natural or cultured, but the fewer and less noticeable they are, the more valuable the pearl.

Shape. In general, spherical pearls are the most prized. However, it is common to find small imperfections of shape, which can be desirable as long as they are symmetrical. For example, teardrop-shaped pearls are often used in earrings and pendants.

Size. Cultured pearls are sold by diameter, measured in millimeters. In general, the larger the size, the more costly the cultured pearl.

CULTURED PEARL JEWELRY

Well-matched cultured pearls used in jewelry items refer to pearls that are essentially the same size, color, shape and luster in a given piece, like earrings or a necklace. In general, the closer the match, the higher the cost. That's why cultured pearl earrings cost more than two individual pearls. If cost is a factor, you may want to consider, for example, a graduated strand of cultured pearls (range of sizes) versus a straight strand (all one size), or colored cultured pearls versus traditional white.

Whether purchased as a June birthstone or for a 3rd wedding anniversary, the cultured pearl still takes center stage in jewelry fashion. The traditional white of the Akoya cultured pearls are now joined by Tahitian cultured pearls in black and gray, golden and cream cultured pearls from Indonesia, Australia and the Philippines, and purple and orange freshwater cultured pearls from China. Available in a variety of settings from strands and earrings to pendants, rings and brooches, cultured pearls appear in a wide selection of jewelry styles. While diamonds and cultured pearls together remain a classic, the combination of cultured pearls with colored gemstones creates a fashion-forward look that is becoming more popular.

CULTURED PEARL CARE

To care for your cultured pearls, avoid using chemical or alcohol cleaners, nail polish, abrasives, solvents, and polish removers while wearing them. Soft gems like pearls should never be put in an ultrasonic cleaner. Instead, wash your cultured pearls in very mild, soapy water.

Before storing your cultured pearls, wipe them with a soft, damp cloth to ensure that they remain free from any harmful buildup of these compounds. Easily scratched if bumped by other jewelry, cultured pearls are best stored in a soft cloth pouch or in a separate, lined jewelry box.

If you wear your cultured pearl strand several times a week, consider having your jeweler re-string it once a year to prevent strand breakage. Experts advise using silk or nylon thread to re-string pearls, with a knot between each pearl. Should your strand break, replace the entire cord. If the pearls are in graduated sizes, try to keep them on the old cord to maintain the same sequence until they are re-strung.

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