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Learn about Gemstones & Birthstones
AMETHYST
Few gemstones have a history as rich as amethyst, the oldest gemstone used by
man. Amethyst is strongly associated with the early belief that it could protect
the wearer against the effects of alcohol. The name comes from the Greek word "amethystos,"
meaning "without drunkenness," so wine goblets often included amethyst
decoration.
The amethyst has also served as a religious symbol. The stone sometimes
represents Christian humility and piety, so amethyst ornamentation in churches
was common, especially during the Middle Ages. Rosaries are often made using the
gem, and many members of the clergy still wear amethyst jewelry. In Tibet, this
gem is considered to be sacred to the Buddha.
Amethyst's most distinguishing characteristic is the color, which ranges from
pale lilac to deep purple, long considered a regal color. Included in the
British crown jewels, fine amethysts were also a favorite of Catherine the Great
and Egyptian royalty. Most of today's supply comes from Brazil, and Zambia is
also a significant source. Amethyst is the birthstone for February.
AQUAMARINE
Known as the "gem of the sea," aquamarine means "seawater." Although this gem is
available in many shades, the rich, clear, watery blue stones are among the more
valuable of these semiprecious gems.
Legend has it that aquamarines were treasures of mermaids with the power to keep
sailors safe at sea. These gems are also thought to have a soothing influence,
especially on married couples, helping them work out differences and ensure a
long and happy marriage. The birthstone for March, aquamarine symbolizes youth,
hope, health and fidelity.
While aquamarines can be found in many exotic places including Nigeria,
Madagascar, Zambia and Mozambique, most of the gemstones available today come
from Brazil.
CIRTINE
Thanks to its durability and availability, citrine is one of the most affordable
gemstones. It was named from the French word "citron," meaning "lemon," because
of its bright golden color. Citrine actually includes yellow to gold to orange
brown shades of transparent quart. Because the yellow variety is similar in look
to yellow topaz - November's birthstone - citrine is an alternative birthstone
choice.
In ancient times, people revered citrine as a gift of the sun and believed the
stone could provide protection against snake venom and evil thoughts. Primarily
mined in Brazil, this gem is popular in many jewelry styles, particularly when
set in polished yellow gold. Since most citrine on the market started its life
as amethyst that was heated to turn its color to gold, citrine jewelry should be
kept away from prolonged exposure to strong light or heat.
EMERALD
The name of the emerald comes from the Greek word "smaragdus," which means
"green." Ancient Egyptians first mined emeralds more than 4,000 years ago, and
Cleopatra was an avid collector. During the 16th Century, Spanish explorers
discovered bountiful deposits of South American emeralds during their
interactions with the Aztecs and Incas. The brightest and most colorful emeralds
still come from South America, with those mined in Colombia considered the best
quality.
Like other gems, the emerald has its own set of mystical powers. Emeralds have
long symbolized fertility, rebirth and springtime. The birthstone for May,
emerald is believed to be a good luck charm, bringing wearers sharpened wit,
wealth, good health and the ability to see the future.
Almost all emeralds have inclusions; however, the fewer in number, the more
valuable the stone. The inclusions can make emeralds brittle, so protect your
emeralds from hard contact including ultrasonic cleaners, whose vibrations can
damage heavily included stones. If your stone has been waxed or oiled to smooth
or fill thin scratches and fissures commonly found in natural emeralds, you may
need to have the stone re-oiled or waxed professionally every few years.
GARNET
While garnet is often seen as a ruby substitute, it can be appreciated for its
wide selection of colors (including shades of red, orange, green and pink) and
different varieties (like rhodalite, demantoid and malaya). Garnet is the
birthstone for January, and any of the stone's colors or varieties is acceptable
for use as a birthstone. Because of its durable nature, garnet is ideal for
jewelry. In fact, the stone's first use as a gemstone dates back to 3100 B.C.
However, the demantoid variety is softer and should be protected from sharp
blows.
This gem symbolizes loyalty and energy. Like many red stones, garnet was once
believed to stop bleeding. However, the stone's color was also thought to
increase the severity of wounds, so garnet was used to make bullets in ancient
Asia and the American Southwest. Its powers were also said to alleviate anger,
promote tranquility, and offer protection in health and travel. Many believed
that garnet had illuminative powers, both physically and spiritually, and served
to protect wearers from nightmares.
IOLITE
Because of its striking color, iolite is becoming a popular gemstone. The name
comes from the Greek word "ios," meaning "violet," and the gem is usually
purplish blue. When cut properly, an iolite cube will look violet-blue from one
side, clear as water from the other, and honey yellow from the top. This
property, known as pleochrism, made iolite a valuable tool for Viking explorers.
They used thin pieces of iolite to block the sun's glare to determine its exact
position in order to return home safely.
Mined in India, Sri Lanka, Africa and Brazil, iolite can be easily obtained in
sizes up to five carats, although much larger stones have been found. The gem is
relatively strong, but you should protect your iolite from sharp blows.
ONYX
Onyx is part of the chalcedony family of colored quartz, which includes agate,
cornelian and jasper. Usually seen in solid black, some onyx has white bands or
ribbons in a backdrop of black or dark brown. Because the bands can form
naturally in many different ways, each piece of banded onyx has a unique
appearance. The most popular onyx jewelry shape is cabochon - a smooth, polished
dome - but the stone is often used to make cameos because of the contrasting
layers.
Opaque stones like onyx are sometimes treated to enhance their natural color and
luster. To ensure the finish remains colorfast, do not wear onyx jewelry while
bathing or swimming, and avoid using chemicals, detergents, hairspray and
perfume near onyx.
The myths and legends associated with onyx are varied, from a means to drive
away evil and high tempers, to the ability to cool the passions of love. This
gem was also believed to increase happiness and intuition, while some believed
that onyx was a symbol of discord, a view probably suggested by the stone's
distinct lines in the banded variety.
OPAL
October's birthstone, the opal includes the same ingredients as quartz; however,
each stone also contains between 6 and 10 percent of water that has not been
compressed into crystals. As a result, opal is softer than quartz and has to be
treated carefully to avoid damage. This gem should be protected from extreme hot
or cold temperatures and strong light to prevent drying out and cracking. Use
only a soft cloth to clean your opals, and avoid ultrasonic cleaners, metal
polish, acids and strong solvents, which can all damage this stone.
The shifting colors of opal, known as "fire," are the result of microscopic
spherical structures within the stone. The structures reflect different
wavelengths of light depending on their spacing, creating the opal's shimmering
effect. Opal comes in three varieties: black, white and crystal, which is
transparent. The non-transparent stones are usually cut into cabochons (smooth,
polished domes). Today's supplies come from Australia, Mexico and the United
States.
Throughout history, kings and queens have treasured opals. The Holy Roman
Emperor's crown included an opal called the orphanus, and the stone was said the
guard the regal honor. The crown jewels of France contain opals, and Emperor
Napoleon gave Josephine an opal with red flashes, known as "The Burning of
Troy." Also an admirer, Queen Victoria gave opals as wedding gifts, and she and
her daughters made them fashionable by wearing them.
Some legends say that opals have the power to improve vision and ward off eye
troubles. These jewels also have a reputation for sharpening the mind and
emotions. Opals symbolize fidelity, but are said to bring trouble to an
unfaithful person.
PERIDOT
Peridot is an ancient stone, used in Egypt for beads as early as 1580 B.C. Known
as the "gem of the sun," the gem ranges in color from yellow green to
chartreuse. Under artificial light, peridot appears greener, prompting ancient
Romans to name it "evening emerald."
According to Hawaiian legend, peridots were divine tears wept by Pele, goddess
of the volcano. The stone was supposed to protect wearers from nightmares and
evil spirits, and peridot's ability to drive away evil was supposed to be
stronger when set in gold. Other powers included the ability to cure liver
disease, promote friendship, and ensure good thoughts in the mind of the wearer.
Many of the peridots mined today come from Arizona, with others coming from
China and Myanmar (Burma). Because the stones have good clarity and brilliance,
faceted cuts are appropriate; however, peridots are relatively soft and should
be protected from damage. Peridot is the birthstone for August.
RUBY
Along with emerald and sapphire, ruby is one of the most prized gems. Early
admirers thought its bright red color came from an undying flame inside the
stone or from a piece of the planet Mars. The name ruby actually comes from the
Latin word for red, and the gem's beauty earned the nickname of "Ratharaj," or
King of Gems, from the ancient Sinhalese people.
In addition to its status as a love symbol, rubies are thought to bring
protection to the wearer. The stones were also thought to stop bleeding, and
ancient Burmese people believed they would be invincible if rubies were embedded
in their skin.
Both ruby and its sister stone, sapphire, are from the corundum mineral species,
but only the red variety is called ruby. All other colored corundums are known
as sapphires. Rubies are durable - the second hardest mineral after diamonds.
They are mined throughout Southeast Asia, and the best-colored stones come from
Myanmar (Burma). Ruby is the birthstone for July.
SAPPHIRE
Although its name comes from the Latin word "sapphiru," meaning "blue," sapphire
actually refers to any colored gemstone from the corundum mineral family except
red. The most popular and well-known sapphire color is blue, and ancient Persian
rulers believed that the color of the heavens was a reflection of the sapphire's
color. This gemstone is also available in other colors like pink, orange,
lavender, green and yellow - known as fancy sapphires.
Thought to be a mind-opening gem, sapphires are said to bring wearers to a more
relaxed state and promote clear thoughts. Sapphires are also supposed to protect
wearers from envy and fraud, bring truth and good health, and act as an antidote
for poison.
The birthstone for September, sapphire is identical in chemical makeup to its
red counterpart, the ruby, which means it is very durable. While sapphire is
found in many parts of the world, the most prized stones come from Myanmar
(Burma), Kashmir and Sri Lanka.
TOPAZ
Topaz occurs in an array of colors from blue, red, orange, peach, pink, gold and
yellow. The gem was first discovered in Brazil, and the pink and cognac-colored
stones were worn by Russian czarinas, earning the stones the name "Imperial
Topaz." Today, topaz is found in Brazil, Mexico, Sri Lanka, Africa and China.
Egyptians believed that the golden glow of topaz came from the mighty sun god
Ra, and the gem was a powerful charm to protect the faithful from harm. Ancient
Romans associated topaz with their sun god, Jupiter, while ancient Greeks
believed that the stone made wearers stronger and even invisible during an
emergency.
Topaz myths are numerous. In the Middle Ages, topaz was believed to have
incredible medicinal powers, even protecting people against the plague. For
healthy people, the jewel brought a pleasant disposition and patience, and was a
symbol of fidelity and love. Topaz also lead to clear physical and mental sight
by dispelling enchantment and improving eyesight.
This gem is very hard, but similar to diamond in that topaz can be split with a
single blow. As a result, you should protect your stone from hard knocks. Yellow
topaz is the birthstone for November, and blue topaz is December's birthstone.
TOURMALINE
Tourmalines are named from the Sinhalese word "turmali," which means "many
colors." Available in more shades than any other gemstone, tourmalines can
include as many as three separate colors in one stone. In fact, a tourmaline can
be found to match almost every other gem. For example, the Russian crown jewels
contain many tourmalines once thought to be rubies. Also popular are the bicolor
and tricolor tourmalines, which have varying patterns - sometimes the different
colors are at the ends of the crystal, or the color at the center of the crystal
can be different from the outside. One popular stone is pink at the center with
green on the outside. Called a "watermelon" tourmaline for obvious reasons, this
stone is sometimes cut in slices rather than facets.
The last Empress of China, the Empress Dowager Tz'u Hsi, valued pink tourmalines
more than any other gemstone, buying nearly a ton of them from the Himalayan
Mine in California. She was even buried with her head resting on a pillow carved
from pink tourmaline. Scientists were also fascinated with tourmaline because it
changes its electrical charge when heated, becoming a polarized crystalline
magnet.
Tourmaline is mined in many parts of the world including Brazil, Afghanistan,
East Africa and the United States. Although the gem is durable, avoid steam
cleaning and heat.
COLORED GEMSTONE CARE
To keep your colored gemstones at their best, follow a few simple steps:
Put on your jewelry after using makeup, perfume or cologne, and hair products.
Before storage, wipe gemstones with a clean, soft, damp cloth and gently pat
dry.
Avoid exposure to hairspray, perfume, chlorine and perspiration, which can dull
gemstones.
Use mild soap and warm water to clean most stones.
Do not use toothpaste or any other abrasive cleaner on stones or mounting.
Use a soft toothbrush to gently scrub your jewelry.
Never use boiling or hot water to clean gems.
Do not wear jewelry while doing household chores.
Wrap each piece in soft tissue or cloth to prevent damage during storage.
ULTRASONIC CLEANERS
These are machines that clean jewelry by bombarding it with sound waves. This
vibration shakes off dirt, but the vibrations can also cause damage to the
gemstone, especially brittle stones like emeralds. Any stone inclusions can be
greatly enlarged by the shaking, making the gem less attractive and valuable.
Because of the risk, we recommend caution when using the ultrasonic cleaners.
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